Nikko, The End

The final set of assorted photos from our trip to Nikko - all the stuff that didn't get posted before!

Nikko in the Snow

Some photos of Nikko on a snowy day.

Nikko in Black and White and Sepia

Some photos from our recent weekend in Nikko, Japan. This is just the beginning of all of the photos I took; Nikko is a beautiful place and the snow that blew through while we were there only made it more picturesque, if difficult to photograph due to all the reflecting light.

I included in this post all the photos I edited to be in black, white or sepia plus one that is not strictly a black and white photo but may as well be.

More to come.

Enjoy!

It Takes ****s

Taipei mayor Hau Lung-bin makes a "please vote for me next election, pretty pretty please" appearance at the commencement of this year's Qingshan Wang (青山王) festival, pulling none other than Qingshan himself.

Yeah, that's my photo. Because I'm hardcore like that and I managed to slither and elbow my way through the crowd to the front. It takes serious ****s to pull that kind of stunt in Wanhua. I managed to say "台灣加油!" in Taiwanese ("daiwan ga yu") to his face. Go me.

Anyway, so Qingshan's birthday - celebrated with three days of crazy, traffic-horror inducing parades, began today. Wander around the Wanhua area (Longshan Temple, Huanhe S. Road, Guiyang Street etc.) after about 3pm tomorrow or Monday if you are interested in some good festival photo ops.

A few photos from today:

The yin-yang god, I believe, with sacred bread. This year's sacred bread was better than last year's. I think they screwed up last year's batch.

Me and deer penis. Like I said, it takes ****s. Wanhua is a crazy neighborhood, so if you've got a hankering for some deer-penis-and-winter-bug alcohol, or some turtle-arm-deer-ear soup, this is the place for you.

Today's festivities were really good for dragon dancing photos. I was especially impressed with the light up dragon. Good work. They even got two dragons to dance facing each other with a ball in the middle, like in the temple paintings and sculptures.

I just think this is cool. If you hadn't known before, this is how they get the tall god costumes down the street.

Below: storing the firecrackers until it's time to make everyone deaf.

Dai's House of Stink (戴臭之家)

There it sits. Challenging me.

So we went to the Xinyi branch of Dai's last night：台北市信義區永吉路30巷1號 - Xinyi, Yongji Road, Lane 30 #1 (it may be #2). It's actually called something along the lines of Du's Memorial to Dai's House of Unique Stink and serves the same horrifically - and I mean horrifically - stinky tofu that Dai's on Nanjing Road sells.

(Once our mouths and intestines recover from this trip, we're going to check out the other Dai's).

The outside of the shop doesn't smell too bad until you get close, when the waves of stenchtacular haze start rolling out. I imagine them as puce colored roils of steam. The smell is enough to trigger synesthesia it seems.

This shop was featured on Andrew Zimmern's show - that guy who goes around the world and eats crazy food - and I admire the guy. I do. I can't eat cockroaches. They terrify me. Forget balut (a congealed duck embryo boiled egg, still in the shell...feathers, tiny bones and all, from the Philippines). I have tried pig's lung and various meats and I swear duck tongue is on the list...but I'm not cut out for that job full-time.

Dai's sells very, very stinky tofu that gets its coma-inducing stankonia from fermenting for extra-long; I think 14 days or so of fermentation compared to a shorter time for regular stinky tofu - which I love, and swear is really not all that stinky. Their specialties are deep fried stinky tofu, which was quite nice and not that stinky at all, as well as raw stinky tofu (above), which was soft and smooth like bleu cheese, but about ten million times as pungent. It's sold by the cube because the owner is pretty sure that your average person can't eat an entire three-cube portion. She may be right.

Left: fried stinky tofu. Center: hot (ma la) stinky tofu. Right: the last of the raw stinky tofu.

We ordered three kinds and dug in. Everyone was pleased with the fried （獨家味臭豆腐 - not sure if that's it exactly but basically that's their house specialty, which is fried）and spicy soup tofu （麻辣臭豆腐）dishes, which, while stinkier than your average street vendor's fare, were not all that stinky in comparison.

The raw tofu (生臭豆腐）, on the other hand, "tastes like licking the inside of a septic tank" as I put it. The stuff on top, a delicious salty, crunchy peanut, seaweed, salt and other-stuff powder, seemed to take the edge off but really just amplified it and helped provide a chaser before the aftertaste - the very fermented aftertaste - rolled in.

But you know what? After a few bites followed up by screwed-up faces (the aftertaste! the aftertaste! O good god won't someone please think of the children?! Gaaaaaahthfdsjfsdjfds%$#%dsak!*#%#&!!!) ...

....

....I decided I actually like the stuff.

(crickets chirping)

No, really. Brendan and Emily T. disagreed - Emily unable to finish, and Brendan helping me finish it but not really wanting or needing to try it again - but I could totally eat that stuff again. Out of choice. And pay for it. With money.

Apparently, Andrew Zimmern couldn't finish the raw tofu - it "defeated" him. I do respect the guy, but I'm sorry. Come on. You *****! I challenge you to a stinky tofu eat off, Andrew. I will win this challenge. I am the Stinky Tofu Champion. I have minions. You are going down.

To Brendan's credit, he seemed to be fine with it by the end. "This isn't so bad now. I think I can handle it after a few bites because something died in my mouth."

"Well, at first it sure tasted like something died in my mouth," I replied.

It's like fine French cheese or beer when tried by kids - yes, I tried beer as a kid - an acquired taste. Very acquired. Really, really very acquired.

We were still up for a challenge so as the laobanniang watched election results roll in - booooooo KMT! BOOOOO! 噓噓噓！ - we ordered the "Clear soup stinky tofu" (清湯臭豆腐）below:

...while avoiding the "Stinky Vigorous Intestine Tofu" (臭大腸旺豆腐) because, while I've eaten intestine and can definitely get it down my throat, I don't care for it. If that's the stuff Andrew Zimmern couldn't eat, however, I will go back and order it and eat it. Just to prove myself as the Stinky Tofu Champion. I'll also get the "Thee Mushroom Six Old Wives" (三菇六婆) tofu, which we were too full to order but sounds nice. (Three kids of mushroom cooked with a cube of tofu sliced in six).

So anyway, the "Clear Soup Stinky Tofu" was just as smelly as the raw stuff. I think "stench" is really a better adjective for it. Clear Soup Stenchy Tofu. The smell wafting from it practically sent Brendan into paroxysms of...something. We're not sure what. Something bad from another plane of existence. Cruddles of it stuck around the edges of the bowl like gray sediment, and the tofu cube itself sat under a pile of sliced mushrooms. Hiding. Lurking. Waiting.

But we ate it. And liked it. Well, I liked it.

And I think I've figured out part of why that stinky tofu is so damn stinky. It's not just the longer fermentation. All of the dishes are topped with or made with something known to increase 'umami' (that deep, rounded savory flavor found in the best foods). I tasted a bit of squid or seaweed oil in the clear soup tofu, which, when cooked with mushrooms, produces an exponentially stronger flavor. The seaweed and peanut topping on the raw tofu has the same effect. Spicy mala broth usually has soy sauce in it, which is in that same group of foods.

In any case...it was good. Horribly, unspeakable, stinkily good.

Happy Thanksgiving - Do It True, My Sweetie Pie

L to R: Jane, Cara, Brendan, me, Joseph, Emily, Sasha

Last year on Thanksgiving we went to Exotic Masala House for an Indian feast. A good time was had by all (me, my sister, our friends Joseph, Emily and Sasha - Brendan had work and joined us later).

Because, you know, even though Thanksigiving more or less commemorates that time the Native Americans were nice to us Europeans before we started killing them all, Americans (generally speaking) feel the need to make a big to-do about it. I think this is equally because we get two days off and are meant to go visit our families (which can be tough if you live far away, as you're more likely to go see them on Christmas just a few weeks later) and so it's a time for good food, warm houses and a huge helping of family drama...

...as well as because it's the start of the Christmas season, which is truly The Most Wonderful Time Of The Year. Not for all that religious stuff - I'm not religious beyond thinking that Daoism is cool and Christianity has a few moral codes that are quite sensible - but because of the obvious stuff: cheesy songs, Christmas lights, trees, gingerbread, hot red wine, cookies and yes, Christmas gifts! Giving just as much as receiving if not more so.

So what does an expat do on Thanksgiving? Well, we wanted something new and we wanted a bird of some sort, so we settled on Do It True - an extremely famous restaurant known for its exceptional Beijing (sorry, Beiping) traditional cuisine. We figured they'd have Beijing Duck as well as other dishes, so that'd take care of our desperate need for Thanksgiving fowl. Which is good, as duck is hands-down more delicious than turkey, at least commercially sold turkey.

Well...

Do It True was good. It was. The food was just fine - especially the spicy braised pork with oodles of lard that one stuffs into sesame buns (called "sesame bums" on the menu, tee hee) and the cedar-scented bean curd (a bean curd with some oil and green chopped vegetable with a strong whiff of woody cedar...not sure how they accomplished that).

But honestly speaking, there are plenty of Beiping-style restaurants in Taipei and while Do It True was quite a nice meal, I feel like we could have done just as well at a local joint.

And they don't serve Beijing duck. Their pine-smoked whole chicken was sold out, so our bird ended up being a plate of kung pao chicken! (Which is more or less fine - it was pretty good considering that this was not a Sichuanese restaurant).

This is not to say I give them a bad review - it really was a good meal. I just wonder why it's sooooo famous. (I did hear a story that the owner retired and left it to his children, who kind of screwed up, and quality went down. Then they redoubled their efforts and things got better, but the food is still not quite as good as it used to be. I wonder how true that is.) Is it worth trekking out to Sun Yat Sen Memorial Hall to eat here? Yeah...sure. But if you're really after good Beijing food - which incidentally is hard to find in Beijing these days - a local place will suffice. And if you want truly amazing regional cuisine from China that will knock your socks off, try Hui Guan for Ningxia food or the Sichuan place with the crazy chef at #5 Renai Road in Yonghe (MRT Dingxi).

Then we taxi'd over to My Sweetie Pie* (owned by Grandma Nitti's across the street) in Shi-da for some good old-fashioned dessert, which we picked up along with Belgian beer from Cafe Bastille (I got "Satan Gold") and headed over to a friend's for pie, beer and chatting.

What the food scene in Taipei really needs is a cafe that has My Sweetie Pie quality desserts and Cafe Bastille beer. The desserts at Bastille are "meh" at best and their food is, as the article says, atrocious - and My Sweetie Pie doesn't seem to do alcohol and definitely doesn't have a wide selection of good beer.

*I'm happy this place got reviewed in Hungry Girl but I would have focused more on the amazing cakes and pies and less on the rest of the menu, as really the best reason to go there is to eat a slice of cake or pie or get a real dessert treat in the form of a whole cake for someone special. I don't mind that the slices are smaller than back home because I'm not one of those naturally thin (or unnaturally thin come to think of it) people who can eat fat slices of cake all the time, and I love raisins, including in apple pie. Also, they make a very good espresso.